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39. Kendallville to Napoleon, OH 7/26 Miles 69.9 Total 2623.8
If I spend
more time describing our mornings on the road, it is because I love these
hours above all others on the ride. The air is cooler and calm, my muscles
feel rested and strong, and the low morning light casts beautiful long shadows
across the earth. (PHOTO: morning)
We entered Ohio on a small farm road. There was no official sign to welcome
us, but the Ohio members of the ride left camp early to constitute a welcoming
committee and were reinforced by family and friends. Flags, music (the
Ohio State Marching Band on CD), food (including chocolate and peanut
butter "buckeyes") and lots of chalk signs on the roadway greeted us as
we pedaled into our tenth state. It turned into a great celebration between
the cornfields lining both sides of the road.
Norberto
Soto held his thumb and finger a fraction of an inch apart when he told
me that he joined this ride to make a difference "even if it's just this
much". Norberto is a retired Air Force flight engineer from Willingboro,
NJ. He worked for an oxygen supply company before he lost his job to come
on this ride. His clients became his friends and spoke with real joy about
one who received a lung transplant two weeks before the ride began. He
also hopes that his ride will help convince his youngest brother to give
up smoking. Norberto kept me company all afternoon and neither of us required
prompting about which way to turn when an ice cream stand appeared on
our right a mile from camp.
I was born and grew up (or at least as much growing up as one can do
by age 11) in Toledo, just north of Napoleon. I remember our house: three
bedrooms and one bath upstairs, and kitchen, living room and dining room
on the first floor. The stairway going downstairs ended in a landing:
two steps down to the kitchen on the right, or two steps down to the living
room on the left, or chase your younger brother around the circle from
the kitchen to the dining room, living room, over the landing and back
to the kitchen. The basement was unfinished, but was heavily used by Dad
(a work bench and tools), Mom (laundry) and the boys (all purpose indoor
rough house space). The attic was storage space and, until my Dad installed
a folding stair, I loved watching him climb onto my Mom's shoulders to
pull himself up into the attic to pass down all the Christmas decorations
and the Lionel. The yard was shaded in the front by Maple trees. An apple
tree in the back yard dropped summer fruit that attracted yellow jackets
to its sweet, sticky rotten flesh. Picking up the soft red-brown lumps
was a summertime chore that I hated. The sandbox was good entertainment
and there were lots of friends up and down the block for "cops and robbers",
"cowboys and indians", softball games in the street, tag, "Red Rover",
"capture the flag" on summer nights, and whatever spontaneous game we
could create. I rode a tricycle until I was in the fourth grade; I graduated
to a real bike so I could ride to the park and join the baseball games.
I watched the man on the far end of the block launch firecrackers into
the trees to scare away the flock of starlings that roosted there and
covered the street and sidewalk with guano. I walked around the other
corner of the block late in the afternoon to the bus stop to meet my Dad
when he came home from work. We made root beer in the basement, cooked
popcorn over a gas flame, mashed apples for applesauce and ate picnics
in the backyard. Leaning on the kitchen counter to get as close as possible,
I listened to "The Lone Ranger" on the radio every week and hoped for
the day when we would have a television set. I haven't been back to see
the house that fills me with so many memories; I won't go back on this
trip. The memories are too numerous and too large to fit into that gray
house with dark green shutters, but they are just the right size to carry
with me.
40. Napoleon to Sandusky, OH 7/27 Miles 85.5 Total 2709.3
The Land Ordinance of 1785, drafted by Thomas Jefferson, squared up "the
West". Beginning at an arbitrary point on the Ohio River where it departed
Pennsylvania,
surveyors began dividing the country into graph paper squares, every half
mile marked by a 30 inch tall wooden stake driven 18 inches into the soil
and marked with chiseled numbers. Within a few years, Ohio, Indiana and
Illinois had been "graphed" in numbered squares and those invisible lines
became real in property lines, lanes, roads and the shapes of fields.
Our route on the back roads of Ohio moving east by northeast, was a series
of right angle turns almost certainly following the lines laid out by
surveyors following Jefferson's instructions.
The
air over the flat mid-west can be turbulent. The prevailing northwesterly
stream of air blowing from Alaska and the Arctic Circle collides with
warm moisture laden southerlies blowing up from the Gulf of Mexico. Baked
by the sun all day, heat begins to rise from the open flatlands. As sun
moves lower in the sky in the late afternoon and evening, the earth releases
its heat rapidly sending columns of hot air upward which become swirls
and gyres of intense aerial commotion. Towering columns of clouds form
quickly in the late afternoon becoming gray and bruise purple. We raced
the clouds into Sandusky hoping to set up camp before rain caught us.
It was a glorious feeling to be speeding over the land under our own power,
feeling very alive. We raced into and out of the cloud shadows on the
road, cooled by the breeze we generated for ourselves. The corn and soybeans
fields were interspersed with carrot and cabbage. We pushed our speed
higher until we entered Sandusky. Success. We did not get wet, but not
because of our efforts, not because of our swift pace; it never rained.
--- Paul Fairman, Big Rider #2152.
< pfairman@earthlink.net>
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